2015 Hild Elbling Spontan Trocken, 750ml

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A lightning tart, incredibly dry and low ABV white wine made from the ancient and overlooked Elbling variety. Once one of Germany's most common grapes but after phylloxera Elbling has retreated mostly to the Upper Mosel and Luxembourg, where it's often too cold to even grow Riesling. Hild is one of the few producers working to keep the grape, and the heritage it has in Germany, alive. Old vines, hand worked by an eccentric old man, and this cuvee is fermented with wild yeasts.

From the mouth of the importer (Vom Boden):

"Matthias Hild reminds me of Randal Graham, the famous founder/winemaker of Bonny Doon, in his eclectic mix of scholar, advocate, farmer and trickster. He also sports a thinning pony tail and takes everything at his own pace and on his own terms. This strength of character likely explains some of how Hild has survived in the Upper Mosel making quality-minded, honest wines in a region where this is not a financially wise thing to do.

The fact that Matthias is single-handedly trying to save the old, terraced parcels of Elbling (see photo above) is a move that is equal parts romantic and completely insane. The financial realities of working these vineyards by hand while accepting their lower yields simply do not add up. This is an act of cultural preservation more than anything else. He calls the wine “Zehnkommanull” which means simply 10% — the wine always ferments bone dry and is 10% ABV or less. The few cases that I’m able to get of this wine are, to me at least, semi-sacred voices of a time long past. Sacred voices that end up on the $20-and-under table and most often overlooked."

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